BA3a Creative Practice - Week 3 Summary

Traditional Russian/Slavic Clothing

I have almost done most of my research for the design stages of my project, with traditional slavic clothing being one of the last topics to look at. Because I want to start on my character designs before the end of October, I need a good knowledge of the clothing worn first to base mine on.

Womens Clothing

Layer 1: The Rubakha, Sorochka, Sorochitsa.

Already in the most ancient period (10-13th centuries) in the costume of Russian women there was a division between lower (under) garments and upper clothes. The undergarment - "srachitsa" ("sorotsitsa", sorochka, rubakha) - was mentioned in many written memorials.

All Russians wore this loose shift as the basic piece of clothing, usually made of bleached linen. Peasants would wear one coarse linen "rubakha" as both under and outergarment.

The more wealthy would add an outer rubakha cut a bit larger and made of more expensive fabric. Rubakha, sorochitsa [рубахаь сорочица] were for many sometimes the only object of clothing. It was sewn of linen, or thin wool (tsatri [цатры] – goat fluff [козъего пуха], ascetics–monks wore even rough vasyanitsu of horse hair), for the wealthy it could be even of silk material.Dancing women with let-down sleeves without the usual "naruchej" can be seen on ritual bracelets of the 12th cent.

The portrayal of such dancers with let-down sleeves is especially characteristic on "naruche" from Old Ryazan (treasure hoard from first half of 13th cent.)

The rubakha was made of homespun unbleached linen for the peasants and of fine, usually, white linen for the upper classes. For the nobility, the rubakha could be made of colored silk, such as red,1. Unmarred Maiden – Belted Rubakha,2. Married Woman – Navershnik over a Rubakha (Gathered Neckline)

Jewellery

Made from Metal, Stone and Glass.

Headdress decorated with metal ornaments sewn on. (Through hair or earrings).

Bronze Bells sewn onto buttons.

Bracelet Hoops, perstni rings.

Poor Men – Belt buckles.

Prosperous Peasants – hat with metal decorations (crosses).

Rich People – Gold Grivna, decorated belt buckles, cloak, silver and gold medallions with enamel ornaments.

Earrings – 3 beads (noble men in one ear).

Neck ornaments and glass beads very popular with women of all classes.

Grivny

[endif]Twisted/Flat chokers.

Made from Bronze, alloy or silver.

Neck Ornaments.

After 13th century – For Prosperous Peasants.

Most valuable – Alloy of Copper or Silver.

Most Common – Copper or Bronze, silver coating traces.

Round wire, metal plate or twisted.

North – Mainly twisted.

Braided/Twisted common for weddings.

Priveski

Worn on chest and waist.

Worn on small chains, chest or belt.

Silver, copper, bronze and bilona (alloy of silver and copper).

Life symbols – spoons, keys, combs.

Weath symbols – Small knives, hatches.

Worship Symbols – swords.

Other - Small bells, needle cases, geometric shapes – circles, moons, little crosses, rhombi, club/clovers, spears.

Little horse, long ears and curled up tail (Horse – Symbol of goodness and luck, fidelity and friendship, connected with the cult of the sun.)

Water birds – life giving of water and sirens (mermaids), prosperity.

Moons and crosses – paganism.

Source: http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/KRC.html

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