BA3a Creative Practice - Week 3 Summary

My Week 3

- Traditional Russian Clothing

- Medieval Armour and Weaponry

- Traditional Hairstyles

- Jewellery and Beauty Ideals

Traditional Russian Clothing Research

Important: Apologies in advance for how long this blogpost is!

This topic is definitely one of the most important that I have been researching since I want my characters to have clothing that is reminiscent of traditional Russia. I will be looking at male and female garments, motifs and the military armour/weapons used at the time. I want to incorporate historical decisions into my character designs, and the only way of doing so is through extensive research!

My main source of information has come from --> http://sofyalarus.info/russia/ , which is an incredibly in-depth website regarding all areas of Russian history. I have taken her research and summarised it into small, more informative notes.

It definitely hasn't been easy to find and source the images to 9th - 13th century Russia but I'm trying my best to gather some photos that are from displays/museums.

Sources:

1. https://uk.pinterest.com/source/sashka-nsk.livejournal.com 2. http://sashka-nsk.livejournal.com

3. http://sofyalarus.info/russia/

4. http://web.archive.org/web/20050419111849/http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Predslava/RussianHistoryTriviaPage.html#fashion

5. http://thelovelyplanet.net/traditional-dress-of-russia-a-symbol-of-ethnic-diversity-in-the-russian-federation/

6. http://sashka-nsk.livejournal.com/37056.html

Male:

Layer 1: Rubakha

- The most basic item of Russian clothing was the rubakha, a long shirt.

- Peasants could simply wear one coarse linen rubakha. Wealthier Rus would wear a second, more expensive rubakha over it (such as silk).

- The rubakha reached nearly to the knees, was worn loose with trousers and always girdled with a narrow sash or belt at the waist. It was considered indecent to wear a rubakha without a belt.

- In cut, the ancient Russian shirt was tunic-shaped, cut of one width of fabric folded in-half. Wedge–shaped inserts widened the shirt to the hem.

- The sleeves were made narrow and long. The opening of the collar was round or quadrangular, with a slit either “straight” - in the middle of the chest, more rarely “slanted” - on the left or right side of the chest.

- The collar of the shirt was fastened on one or a few buttons, of cast bronze, bone, and probably also wood.

- The man’s shirt was long to the knee (sometimes even longer). They wore them untucked in, over their parents, belted with a narrow strap-belt (with metal buckles and plaques) or fabric cords (possibly with castles).

- The collar, hem, and edge of sleeves were decorated with embroidery.

Left: A simple rubakha Right: A fancy rubakha

Layer 2: Light and Heavy Overgarments

The Svita (light)

- The svita was the wool outer clothing of the typical male in the 10th through 13th centuries (and actually longer – Stamerov only discusses that time period.) It pulled over the head with an opening down to the waist and covered the torso fairly closely, gradually widening toward the bottom using side gussets.

- The svita was at least knee length, but could extend to mid-calf. The lower classes tended to have the shorter garments.

- Although the svita is recorded only in connection with men’s costume, this is not a basis to consider it exclusively a men’s garment. In any case, in later times the svita was worn both by men and by women.

- The upper body opening was closed with several small buttons using loop tabs. In the 10th-13th centuries it was typical for such outer garments to have 3 or 4 tabs sewn to the torso, made of heavy horizontal strips of a contrasting color fabric, braid or galoons.

The Shuba (heavy)

- In ancient Rus, the shuba never had the fur on the outside. The fur was used only for linings. The outer fabric was as fine cloth as the wearer could afford.

- Prosperous city dwellers and nobility preferred to cover their fur coats with fabric as valuable as they could afford.

- It was open-down-the-front, with wide sleeves narrowing to the hand. There existed also folding/collapsing sleeves (to be pushed up on the forearms).

- The length of the shuba depended on the style - it could be just a little lower than the knee or long almost to the heel.

- The collar was fur, in various styles. It was generally a loose garment, but some versions were fitted.

- Decorations were the same as on other upper garments: loops/buttonholes, buttons, hammered lace (?), fur edging.

Kozhukh

- For the 9th-13th cent., the most widespread winter upper garment was the kozhukh. It’s very name says that it was made of skins of animal with the fur inside, mainly sheepskin.

- The rich and the elites sewed expensive kozhukhi, covered with gold Byzantine material, edged with lace and decorated with stones.

- Expensive kozhukhi were desired military spoils.

- If peasants and ordinary city dwellers wore kozhukhi to defend from the winter cold, then it's likely that nobles dressed up with them richly decorated for prestige, possibly, and not for cold weather.

Left: One version of the svita Right: A version of the shuba

Layer 3: Cloak-like Garments

Votola

- The Votola was made originally of thick linen or hemp fabric.

- This was a sleeveless garment, thrown over the shoulders over clothing of the svita type.

- It was fastened at the neck and hung approximately to the knee to to the calf.

- Possibly, the votola even had a hood.

- A votola was worn by all, from the poorest to the prince. However the prince's was made from expensive material. As well as sometimes decorated with precious stones, and elaborate clasps.

- A peasants votola was not fastened by a buckle or button, but likely by some sort of cord.

Korzno and Korzna

- A long cloak, almost to the heel, fastened at the right shoulder, the korzno was worn, it seems, only by the prince. All recorded korzno in the written sources are connected with the prince. - There are numerous depictions of the korzna in icons, frescoes, and miniatures.

- The korzno is a very luxurious garment, is a precious cloak of bright Byzantine material, sometimes with fur edging. They were worn over clothing of the svita type, which was usually visible between the opening from the right side flap.

- The person dressed in a korzna had his own right arm free, while the left was covered with the cloak flap.

- A Korzna was often worn by nobilty and was rectangular or semicircular in cut.

- This could be fastened by a brooch or buckle on the right shoulder or in the middle of the chest (a "cloak-mantiyu") and hung down to the ground in wide pleats, sometimes gathered at the waist with a belt.

- These belts were heavily decorated, like the rest of the outer garments.

- The prince's wife wore such a cloak made of red wool (while the prince's was made of the same printed Byzantine fabric as his tunic).

Female:

Layer 1: Rubakha

- Usually made from bleached linen or thin wool, however peasant garments were more coarse. The rich could even be made from silk.

- The 'Rubakha' was the only garment of clothing for many, however the rich often had an outer one which was cut larger and made from more expensive fabric.

- Most Rubakha's were white in colour, however the rich wore mostly red.

- The collar of the shirt was fastened on one or a few buttons, of cast bronze, bone, and probably also wood.

Left: This unmarried maiden is wearing a belted rubakha. Right: This married woman is wearing a navershnik over her rubakha, which has a gathered neckline.

Layer 2: Short Over Garments: The Panova/Skirt, Zapona/Zanaviska (The Navershnik) - Jackets

- The Panova was a skirt, usually worn by married women over the Rubakha.

- The zapona/zanaviska was usually worn my maidens over the Rubakha, as well as being much shorter in length - almost looking like a tabard.

- These were also made from linen or wool and could be multicoloured with a checkered pattern or rhomboidal lattice.

- Jackets were also worn over the panova and rubakha, which could be made from wool, cotton or velvet (for the rich).

- The navershnik was a short tunic that reached the calves and had short broad sleeves.

1. This married woman is wearing a panova over her rubakha.

2. This unmarried maiden is wearing a belted and pinned zapona over a rubakha.

3. This woman is wearing a navershnik over her rubakha.

4. This woman is wearing a reconstruction of the Toroptse/ Izyaslavl dress.

Layer 3: Wide Sleeved Long Over Garments

- These garments were various lengths and styles, made of wool and cotton. The rich would even wear velvet.

- Many of these robes were called a 'Dalmatika', worn by many princesses and noblewomen. These were usually long and topped with an open cloak, with decorated edging along the seams.

This princess is wearing a wide-sleeved robe (dalmatica).

Layer 4: Narrow Sleeved Outer Garments:

The Svita

- The Svita would serve as light outer wear, pulled over the head and made of wool and lined with fur for the winter, typically worn above the Rubakha.

- The Svita could also be various lengths, covering the torso and was always longer than the knee. Nobility usually wore it long however, below the calf.

- It also had a very short collar and a front opening down to the waist which was closed with button loop-tabs or small buttons with loops. The sleeves were long and narrow, reaching the wrists.

- For the boyar class (nobility,a member of the highest rank of the feudal Bulgarian, Moscovian, and Ruthenian people), it was very characteristic for tabs to be sewn as three or four horizontal strips of heavy fabric in a contrasting color, braid or galloon.

- A wide cloth belt was often matched with a Svita.

The Kozhukh

- Fur-lined outer garments were used as winter garments of both men and women, often called the kozhukh.

- They differ in types of cut and material.

- Made of animal skins with the fur inside, most notably from sheep.

- For the rich and nobility, they were covered with gold Byzantine material, edged with lace and decorated with stones.

The Shuby/Shubki

- Also a fur-lined outer garment which was mainly lined with fox. Originally, the leather side of the fur was uncovered (hence why another name for shuby was 'kozhyux' - meaning leather), however this was considered crude; so they were covered with expensive and striking fabrics.

- Many women aspired to own several outer layers with different types of brightly coloured cloth, to wear over the fur lining - many being white, yellow, crimson, green in satin or fine smooth wool cloth.

This unmarried maiden is wearing a fur-lined hat over her braided hair. She is also wearing a svita and boots.

Layer 5: Cloak - like Garments:

- On frescoes of St. Sophia's in Kiev, the women were dressed in edged cloaks (plashi). Often, the edge or border was sewn on and represented itself as a wide silk braid, embroidered with gold. Galloon/braids of such type are found in burials.

- The upper, draped clothing of cloak and cape type were fastened with a large preveska-clasp/fibula, more sometimes two. They wore them either on shoulder, or on chest.

- For noble city-dwellers, two clothing pins, united with a small chain, supported the top edge of the cloak.

Votola

- The Votola was made originally of thick linen or hemp fabric.

- This was a sleeveless garment, thrown over the shoulders over clothing of the svita type.

- It was fastened at the neck and hung approximately to the knee to to the calf.

- Possibly, the votola even had a hood.

- A votola was worn by all, from the poorest to the prince. However the prince's was made from expensive material. As well as sometimes decorated with precious stones, and elaborate clasps.

- A peasants votola was not fastened by a buckle or button, but likely by some sort of cord.

Korzno and Korzna

- A long cloak, almost to the heel, fastened at the right shoulder, the korzno was worn, it seems, only by the prince. All recorded korzno in the written sources are connected with the prince. - There are numerous depictions of the korzna in icons, frescoes, and miniatures.

- The korzno is a very luxurious garment, is a precious cloak of bright Byzantine material, sometimes with fur edging. They were worn over clothing of the svita type, which was usually visible between the opening from the right side flap.

- The person dressed in a korzna had his own right arm free, while the left was covered with the cloak flap.

- A Korzna was often worn by nobilty and was rectangular or semicircular in cut.

- This could be fastened by a brooch or buckle on the right shoulder or in the middle of the chest (a "cloak-mantiyu") and hung down to the ground in wide pleats, sometimes gathered at the waist with a belt.

- These belts were heavily decorated, like the rest of the outer garments.

- The prince's wife wore such a cloak made of red wool (while the prince's was made of the same printed Byzantine fabric as his tunic).

Medieval Russian Armour and Weaponry

"This painting is of Alexander Nevski, prince of Novgorod and later Grand Prince of Vladimir. He defeated the Swedish invaders on the Neva River in 1240 and then the Teutonic Knights at Lake Chud in 1242."

- He is shown wearing a long kol'chuga, single-piece buturliki, naruchi, and an early sholom.

- He carries a chekan in his right hand and is wearing both a myech and nosh on his belt.

- He carries the typical Varangian kite (almond) shaped shield.

- This painting was commissioned by John Sloan and created by Zubov in St. Petersburg, Russia.

Historians divided the development of arms and armour in Russia into three periods.

- The first or "Norman" period from the 9th to the 13th centuries is characterized by the use of the kolchuga - mail shirt - for body armor; the mech - long straight sword - as offensive weapon; theshelm - round, hemispherical iron cap - for helmet; and the long, almond shaped "kite" shield.

- The second period began in the 13th century with a transition to a more Eastern, Mongol and Tatar-influenced style of weaponry during which sabers, round shields and eastern style body armor appeared in general use.

- And finally, the third period which was the beginning of the 17th century. This saw the gradual introduction of Western influences and the Oriental styles waned slowly.

I won't be focusing on the 17th century however, so all my following research will focus on the first and second periods.

Russians categorise medieval arms and armour as follows:

Source: http://www.xenophon-mil.org/rushistory/medievalarmor/parti.htm

(Table Source: http://www.xenophon-mil.org/rushistory/medievalarmor/rustable.htm)

Among the thrusting and slashing weapons, swords, knives, and sabers were in general use all over Russia. I have compiled information from these sites into notes explaining about the weapons.

Weapons

Sword (Mech/Myech)

A single myech and a variety of sabers are shown here.

- The standard weapon of the 10th century was the myech, a long, one or two-edged, straight sword.

- The sword consisted of a klunok, blade (wide, double-edged metallic band) and kridge ( a handle—the three parts of which were called na baldashnik, pommel, of which one form was the yabloko-apple; a small sphere at the end, the chyeryen -the grip itself; and the kryestovina, guard, of which one form was the ognivo — the transverse narrow plate at the opposite end, adjacent to the blade).

- Each flat side of the blade was called golomeny or golomnya and the sharp edges were called lezviya. Golomeni had either one wide groove, or several narrow ones. Blades were made of steel or iron. - The sword was carried in the scabbard, bound with leather or velvet.

- The scabbard was made of iron and decorated with gold or silver inlay.

- The sword was hung on the belt by means of two rings situated on the mouth of the scabbard.

Saber (Sabel)

- In the southern areas of ancient Russia, sabers came into use on a large scale from the 10th century.

- This type of sword was introduced from the Middle East and Asia. The oldest forms are found in burial kurgans on the steppes, dating from the 10th and 11th centuries.

In the Novgorod region, the saber became popular later — approximately from the 13th century.

- The saber consisted of blade and handle kridge. The sharp side of the saber had a blade and a tilye — rear part.

- The handle was composed of the ognivo, the chyeryen, and the knot with a hole, for the temlyak (a type of cord). - The sword changed shape over the centuries as it was developed on the basis of experience to meet new requirements.

- The older mech of the 9th - 10th century had a flat, wide blade with edges parallel almost to the rather blunt end. It was exclusively a striking weapon.

- In Russia by the 12th to 13th centuries of all types of swords known then in Western Europe were in use. The basic types were the so-called Carolingian swords - the longer (the length of the sword was 80-90 cm, width of the blade was 5-6 cm).

- In the second half of the 13th century the thrusting sword also appeared. This had a more tapered blade with sharper point. In the 13th century the blades of swords increased in size and the sword belt was strengthened, which increased the striking power of this dangerous weapon.

-In the 14th century the huge sword with length up to 120-140 cm was widespread.

Military Axe (Topor)

- The Military axe, or toporok, generally a ceremonial weapon.

- The ceremonial (ambasador's) topor was made from ordinary and damask steel decorated with silver and gold appliques.

- The handle of the topor was covered with jewels. However, sometimes gilded copper was suitable.

- These were carried by the tsar's ceremonial bodyguard - the Rinda.

- Combat types of toporki axe carried by cavalry were similar to axes used by common workers.

Knife (Nozh/Nosh)

There were several variations called poyasni, podsaidashni, zasapozhni. Some had blades with very pronounced curvature. The poyasni were short with both edges sharp. Poyasni were worn fastened to the boot, podsaidashni at the belt on the left side near the bow case. In western Europe one similar knife was called a poinard.

- The knives used by Russian warriors were of several kinds. Short, double-bladed knives, fixed by a hook to the belt, were called poyasnie.

- Knives, slightly longer with one blade, curved to the end, were called podsaydashiye. These knives hung on the left side of the belt.

- The knives with curved blades (such blades were called slyak which were carried in the top of a boot, were called zacapozhnye.

Traditional Russian Hairstyles

Male

- Hair was cut in a semi-circle.

- Hair was worn “semi-long” in the back. It was trimmed evenly in a semi-circle in the back and then either combed outwards from the crown, occasionally with bangs covering the brow; or was combed back.

- Short hair was a sign of servitude.

- In the 13th cent. loose hair cut a little above the shoulder was in style. In the 14-15th cent. in northern Rus, or at least in Novgorod lands, men wore their hair long and braided it in a braid.

- Men always wore a beard with side burns and a moustache.

- Beards and moustaches were worn as a sign of adulthood. Married men in particular would grow a beard starting from the cheeks. This could be left broad and full, or trimmed. Shapes included spade, double, blade-like, etc.

- The moustache was always full and hung to or below the beard. Some earlier Rus princes wore only a long drooping moustache, but after the time of Prince Vladimir Svyatoslavovich (early 1000s), the beard was firmly established.

I've been trying to find the early Russian hairstyle but it's been difficult, which is why I have focused more on the 13th - 15th century ones, where the hair falls at the shoulder or long; including the addition of braids.

Female

- Married women in ancient Rus carefully gathered their hair up and twisted it up on top of their heads or in two braids, pinned in a crown around the head.

- Maidens could wear their hair loose or in a single braid. Often, strands of hair at the temples were put in little braids and strung with small bells of bronze or glass.

- The traditional complex women's headdress, consisting of many parts, was characteristic for all of the period of the 13th-17th centuries and was preserved in some levels of society a further two centuries. It was not removed even at home.

- The outfit, whether for daily wear or special occasions, was finished with a headdress. It completed the look, displayed the family's prosperity, and fulfilled feminine modesty.

- Married women were not to go out in public with their heads uncovered, a continuation of the pagan notion that women's hair was dangerous and covering the hair protected women and their relatives from evil forces.

- Finds of maiden's headdresses of 10-13 cent. in excavations - korun, venkov, ventsov, and venchikov - although rare, allow one to form an idea of them.

- The characteristic maiden headdress consisted of various headbands made of ribbons or braid to resemble crowns and floral wreaths.

- A garland of flowers on the head of a maiden was a symbol of coming-of-age and purity.

Chola / Nachil'nika (Headdress)

-Sometimes a simple brow-band of brocade or linen was worn called a chola or nachil'nika. Those used by the upper classes were made of silk or golden fabric, embroidered in colorful patterns. Often their fronts were high and decorated

The Venets

- A venets was formed when the ribbon of the nachilnik/chola was replaced with a wide hoop, or a narrow band, of hard material such as bast, leather, metal, etc., perhaps covered with golden fabric, that was secured at the back of the head.

- In the 11th-12th centuries, the venets began to be decorated on the upper (front) edge by various forms of battlements - pointed teremkami and square gorodkami.

- These were the headdresses of rich maidens.

Left: Chola, Right: The Venets

I will be designing a headdress for Baba Yaga since she is an unmarried woman who lives alone in my premise for a game, and most of the headdress information I can find is for maidens only. I will not be designing Marya with a traditional headdress because she is a warrior and part of the military, which would mean she would carry and wear an armoured helm instead.

Sources:

http://sofyalarus.info/russia/Garb/KWChead.html

Decorations, Jewellery and Motifs:

Grivna (Neck Ornament or Torque)

- Grivna are twisted/flat chokers, made from bronze, alloy or silver.

- After the 13th century, Grivna were mainly purchased by prosperous peasants.

- The most valuable were made from alloy of copper or silver.

- The most common were made from copper or bronze, with silver coating traces. They also were shaped with round wire, metal plate or twisted.

- In the north – Mainly twisted. Braided/Twisted common for weddings.

( Images Sourced from a museum website: http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/wps/portal/hermitage/search-results#search=grivna&tab=WOA)

Priveski (Metal Symbol Motifs)

- Were worn on the chest and waist, as well as on small chains or a belt.

- Priveski were made from silver, copper, bronze and bilona (an alloy of silver and copper).

- Symbolised Life– Shape of Spoons, Keys, and Combs.

- Symbolised Wealth – Shape of Small Knives and Hatches.

- Symbolised Worship – Swords.

- More symbols included circles, moons, little crosses, rhombi, club/clovers, geometric shapes and spears.

- Priveski's in the shape of a horse with long ears and a curled up tail symbolised goodness and luck, fidelity and friendship. Also connected with the cult of the sun.

- Those in the shape of water birds symbolised life giving and prosperity.

- Those in the shape of moons and crosses represented Paganism.

General Jewellery and Motifs

- Jewellery was made from mostly metal, stone and glass. - Headdresses were decorated with different metal ornaments sewn on (through hair or earrings). - Bronze Bells were sewn onto buttons.

- Bracelets were in the shape of hoops and perstni rings were worn.

- Poor men wore belt buckles while prosperous peasants wore hats with metal decorations (mostly crosses).

- Rich People wore gold Grivna's, decorated belt buckles, cloaks as well as silver and gold medallions with enamel ornaments.

- Earrings usually consisted of 3 beads (noble men in one ear).

- Neck ornaments and glass beads were very popular with women of all classes.

Sources of Information: 1. http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/KRC.html

Traditional Russian Views of Beauty

"Folklore indicates that the Russian ideal of beauty was tall, stately, serene, fluid in movement "as though sailing" or "like a swan" - a woman was supposed to hold her head up proudly but cast her eyes down modestly - unless she was a noblewoman.

Thinness and pallor were signs of illness, mean behavior, bad habits or depravity. The similarity between blednost (pallor) and bliadstvo (harlotry) was noted in ecclesiastical texts. So, in contrast, Russian women wished to have bright red cheeks "like the color of poppies", white skin "like white snow", clear lustrous eyes "like a falcon", and black eyebrows "like a sable's tail"."

Sources of Information: 1. http://www.kresy.co.uk/kiervan_clothing.html

#koschei #creativepractice #week3